Wine Legend: Fonseca 1963,Douro,Portugal
Number of bottles produced n/a
Composition of blend n/a
Yield Around 20hl/ha
Alcohol 21%
Release price n/a
Price today £230
葡萄酒傳說:葡萄牙杜羅河產區 芳塞卡酒莊1963年份波特酒
瓶裝量:未知
成分:未知
平均產量:2000升/公頃
酒精度:21%
發行價:未知
現價:230英鎊
A legend because…
This excellent and abundant vintage produced wines that immediately attracted the interest of Port lovers worldwide,and Fonseca was soon recognised as one of the finest wines of the vintage. Almost all shippers declared the vintage. Michael Broadbent describes the 1963 as ‘consistently beautiful… one of the top ’63s,and one of the best-ever Fonsecas’.
緣起……
這款出色的、口味豐富的葡萄酒自打釀造出來就立刻吸引了全世界的波特酒愛好者,芳塞卡很快被認為是該年份最好的葡萄酒之一。
幾乎所有的經銷商都為這個年份酒背書。
邁克爾·佈羅德本特《Michael Broadbent》將1963年描述為『始終如一地華麗……1963年份最好的酒之一,也是芳塞卡最好的酒之一』
Looking back
Fonseca was founded in 1815 and declared its first vintage in 1840. There followed a stream of magnificent vintage Ports such as the 1868 and the 1927,one of the finest ports ever made. In 1949 Taylor,Fladgate & Yeatman bought Fonseca.
The stylistic consistency of Fonseca Ports is often attributed to the fact that they have been made by six successive generations of the Guimaraens family,currently represented by winemaker David Guimaraens. His father,Bruce Guimaraens,a much respected,larger-than-life personality,was the winemaker from 1960 onwards.
回顧
芳塞卡酒莊創立於1815年,並於1840年發佈了它的第一個年份酒。
隨後有1868年和1927年等最優秀的年份波特酒。
1949年,泰勒波特酒莊買下了芳塞卡。
芳塞卡波特酒始終如一的品質歸功於Guimaraens家族六代人的不懈努力,目前扛旗的是釀酒師David Guimaraens。
他的父親Bruce Guimaraens是一位備受推崇的富有傳奇色彩的釀酒師,他從1960年起就在酒莊擔當此任。
The vintage
A frigid winter preceded a very dry summer,with light rain refreshing the crop in September. All this guaranteed an excellent harvest,and a copious one too. Summer was relatively cool,delivering a late-flowering and slow-ripening season that gave the wines an exceptional elegance,although they are less conspicuously fruity than the 1970s.
Harvest was late,taking place in the second week of October,when hot weather had returned.
年份
那個非常幹燥的夏天之前有一個寒冷的冬天,9月份的小雨使得葡萄煥發生機。
所有這一切都確保了當年的大豐收,且果實豐美。
夏季相對涼爽,使得花期較晚,成熟較緩,也賦予當年葡萄酒特別的優雅,雖然其果味濃鬱沒像70年代那麼卓著。
收獲較常年晚,在十月的第二個星期開始,當時趕上天氣回暖。
The terroir
In the 1960s grapes would have been sourced from properties with a long association with Fonseca. The most important was Quinta do Cruzeiro on the east bank of the Pinhão river,which has supplied the firm since the late 19th century; it was subsequently purchased by the house in 1973.
Quinta Santo Antônio,also in the Pinhão valley,often provided more aromatic and vibrant wines to balance the richly fruity character of the Cruzeiro grapes.
風土
在二十世紀六十年代,葡萄原料來自與芳塞卡有長期合作的葡萄園。
最重要的是位於皮尼昂河東岸的克魯塞羅莊,自19世紀後期以來一直為該公司提供果源。
它隨後在1973年被芳塞卡買下。
皮尼昂河谷的聖安托尼奧莊則經常提供更多芳香和活力的葡萄酒,以平衡克魯塞羅葡萄過分濃鬱的果味。
The wine
Fonseca vintage Ports are made in much the same way as all other vintage Ports,the significant difference being the source of the grapes.
Fruit is foot-trodden in lagares in the traditional way,fortified,and then aged in large old vats in the lodges in Gaia,across from Oporto,before a relatively early bottling and release the second year after the harvest.
葡萄酒
芳塞卡年份波特酒與其他波特酒制造方式大致相同,其差別在於葡萄果源。
葡萄用傳統方式踩踏破碎,做成強化酒,然後在波爾圖對面蓋亞酒窖的舊大桶中陳年,裝瓶相對提早,然後在第二年收獲季後發行上市。
The reaction
In 1998 Michael Broadbent found the wine ‘medium-deep,richly coloured,cinnamon and cress fragrance; still sweet,fairly assertive,shapely,lissom.’
Stephen Brook in 2012 noted,‘Prunes and wood on the nose,which is also orangey and floral. Very sweet and intense,with a silky texture,fine acidity… and an evolved character.’
反響
1998年, 邁克爾·佈羅德本特發現這種酒『中等深度,色澤豐富,肉桂和水芹味道濃鬱。
依然甜美,卓爾不群,有款有型』
斯蒂芬·佈魯克《Stephen Brook》在2012年指出,『西梅和木質香氣,裹挾著橙味和花香。
甜美而緊致,質地絲滑,酸度適宜,而且有良好演化的特質』
譯自——