Wine Legend: Taylor’s Vintage Port 1927,Douro,Portugal
Released at just 20 pence per bottle,this Port has earned a place in Decanter’s wine hall of fame. Find out why below…
The facts
Number of bottles produced N/A
Alcohol content 21%
Release price: £0.20 a bottle (in today’s money)
Auction price today £773 a bottle
名酒傳奇:泰勒1927年份波特酒
——葡萄牙 杜羅河谷
這款波特酒當初發行價價僅為20便士,卻贏得了葡萄酒瓶名人堂的一席之地。
以下究其因——
相關數據:
瓶裝量:未知
酒精含量:21%
發行價格:每瓶0.20英鎊《今值》
今天拍賣價格:每瓶773英鎊
Taylor’s Vintage Port 1927 is a legend because…
Other than the rare Nacional bottling from Quinta do Noval,Taylor’s vintage is the most sought-after and expensive of all vintage Ports,and this wine,from an acclaimed vintage,is the epitome of the style. Ironically,the 1927 vintage was released at the height of the worldwide economic slump. Consequently sales were sluggish for many years.
泰勒1927年份波特酒之所以成為傳奇,是因為…
除了來自飛鳥園的罕見的Nacional裝瓶酒之外,泰勒的葡萄酒是所有陳年波特酒中最受歡迎和最昂貴的葡萄酒,這種葡萄酒頗負盛名的葡萄酒,頗具典型性。
諷刺的是,1927年的葡萄酒在世界經濟衰退的高峰時期發行的。
因此,銷售很多年都一直低迷。
Looking back
Taylor’s can trace its history back to the end of the 17th century,although it subsequently had numerous owners,of whom the best known were the Bearsley family. By the 1830s John Fladgate and Morgan Yeatman were among the major shareholders,and the business remained in their hands until 1921,when Frank Yeatman became the sole proprietor. It was not until the end of World War II that the company began its expansion by buying Fonseca. In the 1920s Taylor’s was a far more modest concern,though always with an emphasis on quality. It was in 1927 that the Yeatmans planted blocks of individual varieties at Quinta de Vargellas,but the usual custom at the time was to plant field blends,and the 1927 vintage would certainly have been produced from the latter.
回顧
泰勒的歷史可以追溯到第十七世紀末,雖然隨後有業主眾多,其中最著名的還是Bearsley的家族。
到19世紀30年代,John Fladgate和摩根耶特曼是主要大股東,直到1921年,當Frank Yeatman成為唯一投資人之前,他們一直經營著泰勒。
直到第二次世界大戰結束,該公司才開始擴大業務購買豐塞卡。
在20世紀20年代,泰勒是一個很低調的公司,盡管很專註提升質量。
1927年,yeatmans在華載納斯莊園分地塊種植不同品種葡萄,而當時的通行做法是混合種植,1927年份酒顯然是此後生產的。
The vintage
This is widely accepted as one of the great vintage Port years of the 20th century,declared by about 30 shippers. The climatic conditions allowed a relatively early harvest,well before any threat of inclement weather could materialise. Moreover,the harvest was copious and most Port houses declared a far larger quantity than was usual in vintage years. Despite the large volumes released,quality was extremely high,with admirably concentrated fruit and fine structure,which has allowed the wines to age extremely well. Because the market,hit by economic crisis,could not absorb so much vintage Port,much of the wine ended up being blended with standard ruby Ports.
年份
這是被廣泛接受為20世紀最優異的波特葡萄酒年份之一,由約30位承運商確認。
氣候條件允許在遭受可能的惡劣天氣威脅之前提早收獲。
此外,收獲豐盛,大多數波特酒莊的收獲都超過以往。
盡管發行數量大,質量非常高,果味濃鬱,結構細膩,使葡萄酒能很好陳釀。
由於受經濟危機打擊的市場無法吸收如此多的年份波特酒,大部分葡萄酒最終與標準的紅寶石波特混合在一起。
The terroir
Quinta de Vargellas has long been the company’s flagship estate,and its wines,then as now,form the core of the vintage blend. It was bought in 1893,though its grapes had supplied Taylor’s for many previous decades. Wines from Vargellas are known for their floral aromas,often described as violets,and for concentration allied to great elegance. Vargellasâs top wines would almost certainly have been blended with wines purchased from other quintas,such as Terra Feita. This vineyard had been supplying Taylor’s since the 1890s,and would subsequently be bought by the firm in 1974.
風土
華載納斯莊園長期以來一直是該公司的旗艦地產,其葡萄酒現今已成為其復合年份酒的核心。
它在1893年被買入,雖然此前它的葡萄已經為泰勒供貨幾十年。
來自瓦格拉斯《Vargellas》的葡萄酒因其花香而聞名,通常被描述為紫羅蘭香,濃鬱優雅。
Vargellas的頂級葡萄酒幾乎肯定會與從其他華載納斯葡萄園像Terra Feita購買的葡萄酒混合在一起。
這個葡萄園自19世紀90年代以來一直供應泰勒,並在1974年由該公司購買。
The wine
All the grapes would have been foot-trodden in stone lagares,a method that ensures gentle but complete extraction of colour and tannins. After a few months of ageing in vats,the wine would have been transferred to the Taylor’s lodge in Vila Nova de Gaia,across the river from Oporto. There it would have been kept in wood for about two years before being bottled. The Taylor’s style is one of great concentration and depth,and is marked by a long,tannic finish that promises a very long life in bottle.
酒
所有的葡萄都會在石槽裡踩踏,這種方法可以保證溫和而完整的顏色和單寧的提取。
經過幾個月的大桶老化後,葡萄酒將被轉移到加亞新城橫跨波爾圖省河流的泰勒酒窖。
在那裡,它將被保存在木桶中大約兩年,然後裝瓶。
泰勒的風格是非常濃鬱和有深度的,明顯特征是綿長的單寧回味,並可期待在瓶中有很長的生命力。
The reaction
DWWA Regional Chair for Port,Richard Mayson,tasted the wine in 1989,alongside Niepoort and Fonseca,and found it ‘still incredibly powerful and concentrated,retaining the bitter chocolate and liquorice-like intensity that is the hallmark of a really fine vintage Port’.
Retired Decanter columnist Michael Broadbent’s most recent recorded tastings were in 1993 and 1997 ‘magnificent’ on both occasions. Adrian Bridge,Taylor’s current managing director,recalls: ‘The 1927 is a sublime vintage Port that I rarely get to taste these days,but when I do,I am always amazed by its incredible structure,vigour,and elegance. True hallmarks of a great Taylor’s vintage Port.’
反響
DWWA區域主席,理查德·馬森,1989年品嘗該葡萄酒,同時與尼伯特和芳塞卡酒莊的酒一起品嘗,發現它仍然非常強勁和濃鬱,保留苦味的巧克力和甘草般的強度,典型的優質年份波特酒特質。
退休的品醇客專欄作家邁克爾·佈羅德本特《Michael Broadbent》最近的品嘗記錄是在1993年和1997年,都以『壯麗』來形容該款酒。
泰勒現任董事總經理阿德裡安·泰勒《Adrian Bridge》回憶說:『1927年份波特酒是崇高的,近來我很少能品嘗到,然而每當我品嘗它,我總是被其驚人的結構,活力和優雅震驚。
那是 一個偉大的泰勒年份波特酒特征』
源自——